I built the tool I kept wishing existed: Introducing MakerSpecs



I've shipped a lot of projects on this blog over the years — CNC conversions, laser builds, the occasional backyard foundry experiment. Most of them started as curiosity. This one started as frustration.

Every time I plan a new machine for the shop — or just daydream about the one I can't afford yet — I hit the same wall. The specs I need are scattered across manufacturer pages written by marketing departments, half-translated forum threads, and YouTube comments. Work area, real power figures, material compatibility, what software it actually talks to: all of it lives in ten different tabs, and none of those tabs agree with each other. I've burned more evenings than I'd like to admit just trying to line up two printers side by side.

So I built the thing I kept wishing existed. It's called MakerSpecs, and it's a catalog of maker machines with spec sheets I actually trust.

A few principles, because they're the whole point.

It's independent. MakerSpecs doesn't sell machines and doesn't hide affiliate links in the buttons. I'm not steering you toward whatever pays the best commission this month. The job of the site is to tell you what a machine is, honestly, so you can decide for yourself.

Every spec is verified, one machine at a time. The data starts from the manufacturer's official source, but it doesn't stop there. I use AI as a second reader — to flag anomalies, catch contradictions, and sketch where a machine sits in the market — and then a human (me) reviews and signs off. No anonymous content farm, no AI slop published unchecked. If a number is on the page, someone looked at it on purpose.

It's curated by one person, and I'm not going to pretend otherwise. If you've read this blog, you already know me: I'm juppiter78, the same maker who's been documenting CNC and laser projects here on BoxedCNC since 2012. One real signature beats a fake "editorial team" every time. If I get something wrong, there's a single person to email — and I answer.

Right now the catalog is intentionally narrow. I'm starting with a handful of machines I know well: 3D printers first, then milling machines and lathes. I'd rather have a small set of pages that are genuinely correct than a huge index full of copy-pasted marketing. But the plan is to keep extending the database — more categories, more brands, more of the machines that actually fill a real workshop.

And that's the part I'm most excited about. The long game isn't just "compare two printers." It's a place to design your dream lab. Most of us build our workshop one tool at a time, across years, on a budget, around the space we have. I want MakerSpecs to be where you sketch that out — where you can browse machines by what they make and what they cut, see how they'd fit together, and plan the shop you're working toward instead of just the one you've got. The dream lab first; the purchase orders later.

It's early. Some categories are still empty, some pages are thin, and the roadmap is a lot longer than the current catalog. That's fine — I'd rather launch honest and small than polished and fake.

If you build things, go take a look: makerspecs.com. Poke around, compare a couple of machines, tell me what's missing. And if you spot an error — a wrong work area, an outdated price, a material that shouldn't be on the list — let me know. Same as always around here: it's just me on the other end, and I'd rather fix it than defend it.


More soon. Back to the shop.

— juppiter78

SIEG X2 MINI MILL BELT DRIVE CONVERSION: My version with 220V 3 phase motor and VFD



Another project is finally finished: SIEG X2 aka MINI MILL BELT DRIVE CONVERSION.

The original SIEG X2 DC motor prematurely left me with a piece of junk, cause to carbon brushes spikes. I tried to change mosfet, but after another set, i decided to convert this machine to belt drive.

The new version uses a 750W motor (1HP) with a Mitsubishi VFD.
In the post, video of operation and make of. 


Finished belt conversion
The 3d printed test

Another view of 3d printed test
6 mm aluminium plate 
Too many chips... need to find a solution
Refining the two hubs... mmm... why not cnc




PCB CNC ABLATED WITH LASER: why send outside if you can do at home


A long waited fab for PCB, etched in house using a 5W visible laser (450nm), diy chemicals. The process is straightforwarding and really precise.

I started with black spray paint, then lasered with FlatCam and GRBL, then etched with hydrochloride (33%) and hydrogen peroxide (130 volumes, difficult to find).

Videos at the end of the post.

A great result: total time approximately 30 minutes.


Blank one side PCB
Tried two spray paint. The right one is the best, matte black acrylic paint

Just sprayed

Cutted and ready to be ablated with 5W laser


Ablation in progress (previous photo without support). Air assist is really necessary.

The 5W laser is ablating spray paint @ 100% duty cycle - feed: 700 mm/min, but i tried also 30% duty cycle and it worked. 


Ablated pc, design from kicad with FlatCam

Ablated pcb. Before etching, i cleaned it with peroxide @ 3%
Etching, only ten seconds


Before etching, I've heated @ 40 degrees Celsius

 

Etched and rinsed in tap cold water

Cleaned with acetone (nail solvent) to clean residual paint

Close Up
Cutted (by hand this time) and drilled with 0.9





Next steps: soldermask and white text and double sided pcb.



METAL CASTING: Backyard metal foundry, introduction

Time to start a new project, which involves extreme temperatures, molten metal, sublimating foam and more like this. 

My propane burner


Backyard metal foundry will enable me to melt metal scrap into useful drafted objects that could be later machined with precision.
Temperature achievable at home (up to 1200°C) enable to melt aluminium, brass, copper, bronze. Iron requires higher temperature and different techniques.

The receipt involves few elements:
- a liquid propane tank. Liquid Propane has various advantages in respect to traditional charcoal foundry: requires less space, because energy density is higher, so mre energy. Here you could find in local stores 30 liters propane tanks with standard attachment.
source Own Work - author Hustvedt

- a propane burner
. There are various models you can build, with back air or with venturi effect. The one i decided to build is the simplest one. It attaches to propane tank with standard pressure reducer, then with a pipe attaches to a custom burner based on two elements, the burner itself which is a drilled steel water pipe of standard length and the gas diffuser, another steel pipe with tiny hole on the center. The gas flows from the tiny hole then mix with back air and blows a blue flame of high temperature. A possible add-on may be a back air blower to enhance the oxygen available to complete the combustion inside the foundry.

Note the burner itself has specific dimensions and more air holes to capture oxygen.



- a foundry. This is where the burned gas inside a refractory lining fuse the scrape metal. The construction of the foundry is more or less a metal barrel with refractory cement on the bottom and on the walls. A removable cement top hat with hole, to regulate the heat into the chamber, complete the foundry.
For my application i found a convenient olive oil barrel that I cutted with grinder. On the side, near the bottom, I will drill an hole with specific angle to introduce the burner.


- the crucible. for hobby metal needs simple steel barrel is sufficient. For more specific application sintered crucibles made from ceramic or oxide powder is required because molten metal (Specifically aluminium react with iron). And more could be easily replaced.


- a flask with sand and cavity or, in my case, foam. Foam metal casting is a recent technique in which a foam pattern remain inside the sand. The molten metal replaces instantaneous the foam sublimating it. After cooling the foam is no more present and the metal has the design of the foam pattern.
Find more information on this process on wikipedia.
Of course the best site around from 2000: http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/

- the pattern, that could be easily machined with cnc or standard technology.


Popular posts